Kim Gjerstad in Congo - Virunga, Congo, 2005

The beautiful mountain range of the Eastern Congo.

The Nyiragongo overshadows Goma, the biggest city in Eastern Congo. An eruption in 2002 destroyed some parts of the city, including a a third of the runway. Taking off is hair raising.

The volcano pit is 800 meters deep, 100 meters across. I have yet to go peek into it. At bottom one can see the lava activity... it's a question of time before another eruption.

The Belgiums never built this town, which is nestled between Rwanda, lake Kivu and Virunga National Park.

The tshukudus bring the goods to Goma's market. This icon of of the city is entirely made of wood and uses gravity for power. They can load well over 300 kg of vegetables on it.

This is not a volcano.

Less than hour drive brings you to Virunga National Park, Africa's oldest (1925). From fire to snow (see Ruwenzori gallery), lakes to dense forest, this park has it all, even savana.

Almost half the DR Congo animals species lie there (196 of 415).

At a guards' post, traces of poaching.

Wildlife in the savana.

Animals seem quite use to human presence here.

Virunga borders Uganda and Rwanda, making it a dangerous place for the park guards, like these.

The UN Fund (Ted Turner) enable to pay their salaries (about 40$ a month) throughout the war.

Over 100 of them have been killed in the last 10 years.

These are RCD soldiers. Very unpopular rebel group that has been sponsored by Rwanda in their proxy war in the Congo.

Beneath the plateau lies Uganda, in the background.

These one were no older than 18. Their group leader, a Manyamulenge who refused to be taken in photo, followed us in the the savana. A nice fellow that spoke perfect Lingala, a western language.

Wary buffalos on the lookout.

Africa's most dangerous animal, the hippo is in severe decline in the Congo. Lake Albert in Virunga has less than a thousand left, while a 1989 census suggested 23 000.

An elephant we see on the Ugandan side.

Arnaud with his cameraman on the edge of Lake Edward. This village, Kyavinyonge, was pillaged in July this year.

RCD soldiers using villagers as their slaves to carry their personnal belongings.

In Rutshuru, the wild west, eating breakfeast on our way to shoot. Arnaud is seated with Pyther, Marie (WWF) and Deo from ICCN (Institut congolais pour la conservation de la nature, the park guards parastatal).

Both Deo and Pyther have been awarded prizes for the individual efforts for the park.

Djomba ICCN (Institut pour la Conservation de la Nature) station is where we start trekking to find the gorillas. It also very near Georges Schaller's post and where Diane Fossey originally arrived to study the gorillas.

It has been reopened in 2004 for tourists coming in from Uganda, since they're always overbooked. Here it costs 250$ to see the gorillas, much cheaper than Rwanda and Uganda.

Our hosts were supa friendly... or eager to get more tourists.

The Silverback. This male is so big, it's unimaginable. But he pays little attention to us.

The few gorillas that are left are being well cared for and are used to human presence.

A youngster chewing around. The tenneagers are the only ones really curious of our encounter.

Everyone around me is quiet at this point and shooting crazy. It is a fascinating encounter.

This little fella is the future genration. He can barely walk or climb.